Much of the road network around Santa Teresa and Mal País is still gravel or dirt. In the dry season that means thick dust; in the green season, mud, puddles and potholes. A car with good clearance handles the main roads, a 4x4 helps on hilly side roads in the rain, and anyone riding an ATV or scooter should wear a helmet and a buff and avoid riding at night.
The honest picture
Santa Teresa's road is part of its legend. For years, the coast road through town was a strip of dirt that turned into a dust storm in the dry season and a chain of puddles in the wet one. Things are improving, but slowly. In September 2024, local press reported that the Cóbano council had approved paving the streets of Santa Teresa and the surrounding area, and that around 90% of the roughly 218 km local road network was still gravel or dirt at the time. Some stretches have been improved since then, but expect plenty of unpaved road during your stay.
The main route in from the Paquera ferry, Route 160 through Tambor to Cóbano, has been upgraded over recent years, which makes the drive in much easier than it used to be. The real challenge is the last stretch and the roads around town.
Dry season: the dust
From about December to April, there's almost no rain, and every passing car, truck and ATV kicks up a cloud of fine dust. By March and April it coats the plants, the shopfronts and you. It's worst along the busiest part of the coast road in north Santa Teresa.
How to cope:
- Ride covered. On an ATV, scooter or bike, wear sunglasses and a buff or bandana over your nose and mouth.
- Choose your room wisely. Rooms right on the main road get the most dust and noise. Ask for one set back from the road.
- Slow down. Driving slowly is safer and keeps the dust down for people walking.
- Rinse your eyes. Contact lens wearers may want to bring glasses and eye drops.
Green season: mud and potholes
From about May to November, afternoon rain soaks the roads. Puddles grow into ponds, potholes appear, and steep side roads can get slippery. September and October usually bring the heaviest rain. After a big storm, low spots can flood and small rivers can rise quickly.
How to cope:
- Don't drive through water you can't see the bottom of. Wait, or ask locals.
- Take steep hills slowly, and avoid them after heavy rain if your car isn't a 4x4.
- Allow extra time, especially if you're catching a ferry or a flight.
What to rent
| Vehicle | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Car with good clearance | The main route in and the coast road | Steep, muddy side roads in the rain |
| 4x4 | Hillside rentals, rainy season, exploring | Higher rental cost, still needs care in floods |
| ATV (quad) | Getting around town, back roads | Dust, sun, night riding, accidents |
| Scooter or motorbike | Short trips along the coast road | Loose gravel, potholes, rain |
| Bicycle | Short, flat stretches near your hotel | Heat, dust, dark roads |
ATVs are popular here, and you can rent them from local outfits such as Pacific Dirt Road Adventures and Savannah X-Treme Tours. Bring your driver's license, wear the helmet, and don't ride after drinking. ATV accidents are one of the most common reasons visitors end up at the clinic. Read our ATV guide.
Driving and riding safely
- Avoid driving at night if you can. The roads are dark, with pedestrians, dogs, cyclists and potholes.
- Watch for people walking on the road. In much of town there's no sidewalk.
- Use the right maps. Waze and Google Maps both work, but local roads change after rain. Ask your hotel about the best route.
- Park carefully. Leave nothing visible in your car, and use your hotel's parking at night.
- Fill up in Cóbano. It's the nearest place with a gas station, so don't let your tank run low.
Walking and cycling
Many people walk or cycle short distances, especially in north Santa Teresa. Stay to the side of the road, face oncoming traffic, and wear a light or reflective layer after dark. In the dry season, a buff helps here too. Where the tide allows, the beach is often a calmer, cleaner route between neighborhoods than the road.
Frequently asked questions
Is the road to Santa Teresa paved?
The main route from the Paquera ferry to Cóbano has been upgraded, but many local roads in and around Santa Teresa are still gravel or dirt. Paving of the town's streets was approved in 2024.
Do I need a 4x4 for Santa Teresa?
Not for the main roads in the dry season. A 4x4 is a good idea in the green season and if your accommodation is up a steep hill.
How bad is the dust in Santa Teresa?
It can be heavy in the dry season, especially from February to April along the busiest part of the coast road. A buff and sunglasses help a lot.
Is it safe to ride an ATV in Santa Teresa?
It's common, but accidents happen. Wear a helmet, ride slowly, avoid riding at night and never ride after drinking.
