From San José, drive to Puntarenas, take the car ferry to Paquera, then follow Route 160 through Tambor and Cóbano to the coast, about an hour and a quarter after the ferry. From Liberia you can drive down the peninsula through Nicoya instead. A high-clearance car or 4x4 makes life easier, especially from May to November.
The short answer
Most people drive from San José to the port of Puntarenas, take the Naviera Tambor car ferry to Paquera, and drive about an hour and a quarter to the coast through Tambor and Cóbano. At the Playa Carmen junction, turn right for Santa Teresa and Playa Hermosa, or left for Mal País. Book your ferry ahead in busy periods, start early, and plan to arrive before dark.
Route 1: via the Paquera ferry (the usual way)
- San José to Puntarenas. Head west out of the city toward the Pacific and follow signs for Puntarenas. The port sits at the end of a long, narrow spit, and the ferry terminal is near its tip. Allow extra time for city traffic, especially on Friday afternoons and holiday weekends.
- The ferry. Naviera Tambor runs the crossing to Paquera, which takes about an hour and a quarter. Its current timetable, valid from 2026-Apr-20 until further notice, lists sailings at 4:00, 6:30, 9:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00, 20:00 and 22:00 in both directions. Part of the space on each boat is sold online and the rest at the ticket office. Our ferry guide has the details.
- Paquera to Cóbano. From the Paquera dock, follow Route 160 south and west through Tambor to Cóbano. Paving on this road began in 2018, which made this stretch far easier than it used to be.
- Cóbano to the coast. From Cóbano, follow signs for Santa Teresa and Mal País. The road climbs over the hills and drops down to the Playa Carmen junction at the beach.
Plan on about 5 to 6 hours from San José in total, depending on traffic and how long you wait for a ferry.
Route 2: via the Naranjo ferry
Coonatramar runs a car ferry from Puntarenas to Playa Naranjo, which lands farther north on the peninsula. From Naranjo you drive south to Paquera and continue on Route 160 as above. It adds driving time, and parts of the road can be rough, but it's a handy backup when the Paquera boats are full. Check Coonatramar's website for current sailings, since it posts schedules as images and announces special timetables on its social media.
Route 3: overland from Liberia via Nicoya
If you're starting at Liberia airport (LIR) or the Guanacaste beaches, you can skip the ferry and drive south down the peninsula through Nicoya. The northern part is on main paved roads. Closer to Santa Teresa you'll be on smaller roads that may be gravel, with river crossings that can rise quickly in heavy rain. This route is fine for a confident driver in a 4x4 in the dry season. In the wettest months, ask locally or check a live map before committing, and consider driving around the gulf to Puntarenas and using the ferry instead.
Whichever way you go, give yourself a full day and avoid arriving after dark.
What the roads are like
The main road from Paquera to Cóbano is paved. Around Santa Teresa it's a different story. In September 2024 the Cóbano council approved paving Santa Teresa's streets, including the stretch from Playa Carmen to Quebrada del Carmen, and at the time about 90% of the area's roads were gravel or dirt. Some work may have progressed since, but don't count on smooth roads in town.
- Dry season (about December to April): dust is the main issue. Drive slowly through town, both for safety and to keep the dust down for people walking.
- Rainy season (May to November): expect potholes, mud and the odd washout, especially in September and October, the wettest months.
- Everywhere: watch for pedestrians, cyclists, surfers with boards, dogs and ATVs. Wikipedia's summary recommends staying around 70 km/h on the peninsula roads, and in town you'll want to go much slower.
Our guide to roads, dust and rainy season goes deeper.
Do you need a 4x4?
In the dry season, a sturdy regular car can usually manage the main roads. A 4x4 or at least a high-clearance vehicle becomes much more useful in the rainy season, on the back roads, on steep hillside driveways where many rentals sit, and on the overland route from Liberia. If you're unsure, rent the higher car. It's a small trade-off for peace of mind.
Renting a car
The simplest plan is to pick up a car at the airport where you land, either San José (SJO) or Liberia (LIR), and drive from there. A few things to know:
- Book ahead in high season and over holidays, when 4x4s run short.
- Insurance: Costa Rica requires mandatory liability insurance on rentals, and this is often not included in the low prices you see online. Read exactly what's covered before you book, and check whether your credit card coverage is accepted.
- Inspect the car and photograph any damage before you drive off.
- Ferry tickets for the car are bought separately from the rental.
- Local options: scooters, ATVs and cars can also be rented in the Santa Teresa area if you'd rather arrive by shuttle and rent for just a few days.
Fuel
Fill up before you leave the mainland and again on the peninsula. Cóbano is the district town, where most services are, and it's the place to look for fuel and an ATM before heading to the coast. Stations are few on the peninsula, so don't let the tank run low, and confirm locally if you're planning a long day trip.
Waze and Google Maps
Both work well here and are what most visitors use. A few tips:
- Download offline maps before you go. Signal can drop in the hills.
- Don't follow shortcuts blindly. Apps sometimes route you onto steep tracks or river crossings that are fine in a dry-season 4x4 and impossible after rain. When in doubt, stick to Route 160 and the main road through Cóbano.
- Use Waze for traffic around San José and Puntarenas.
- Pin your hotel in advance. Many places don't have street addresses, so a map pin or directions from your host is the most reliable way to find them.
Night driving
Try not to. Roads are unlit, edges are soft, and you'll share them with pedestrians, animals and unlit bikes. Rain makes it worse. If your ferry gets in late, drive slowly and consider booking a night near Paquera or in Cóbano, or arrange a transfer. Timing your ferry so you're on the road from Paquera with a couple of hours of daylight left is the best plan.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the drive from San José to Santa Teresa?
About 5 to 6 hours including the ferry crossing, which takes around 1 hour 15 minutes. Traffic and ferry waits can stretch that.
Is the road to Santa Teresa paved?
The main road from Paquera to Cóbano is. Most streets around Santa Teresa were still gravel or dirt in 2024, though paving work has been approved.
Do I need to book the ferry for my car?
It's a good idea in high season and on holidays. Naviera Tambor sells part of each boat's space online and the rest at the ticket office.
Can I drive from Liberia without taking a ferry?
Yes, by heading south through Nicoya down the peninsula. Expect some slower, unpaved sections near the end, which are harder in the rainy season.
The places in this guide
Playa Carmen
Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica
Playa Carmen is the beach at the main intersection where the road from Cóbano reaches the coast, between Santa Teresa to the north and Mal País to…
Playa Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa north, Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica
Playa Santa Teresa is the long sand beach running north from Playa Carmen, and it's the reason most people come: consistent waves, a wide beach for…
Mal País
Mal País, Mal País, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica
Mal País is the southern stretch of coast below Playa Carmen, running toward the fishing harbor and Cabo Blanco reserve. It's rockier and quieter…
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa, Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica
Playa Hermosa is the wide, flat beach that continues north from Santa Teresa toward Manzanillo. It's quieter and more spread out than Santa Teresa…






